Barahakshetra

Barahakshetra — 'the field of Varaha' — lies where the great Koshi river bursts out of the hills and is joined by the Koka. For Hindus it is one of the four major pilgrimage fields (kshetras) of Nepal, and it is also sacred to many Kirat people of the eastern hills.

The story of Varaha

When a demon dragged the Earth to the bottom of the cosmic ocean, Vishnu took the form of a giant boar, dived in and lifted her out on his tusks. The Puranas that tell this story name Barahakshetra as a place of Varaha's presence, and the main temple holds an image of the boar-headed god.

Festivals

Kartik Purnima, the full moon of autumn, brings the biggest crowd, including many pilgrims from Bihar and West Bengal. Makar Sankranti in January is another bathing day. Since BS 2059 (2002) Barahakshetra has hosted its own Maha Kumbha Mela every 12 years, with an Ardha Kumbha at the six-year mark.

The setting

The temple complex stands on the riverbank with views up the Koshi gorge. The river here drains a huge area of eastern Nepal — the Sun Koshi, Arun and Tamor all join upstream — and its roar is part of the experience. Rafters on the Sun Koshi often end their trip near Chatara, just downstream.

Practical

Carry water and sun protection; there are simple eateries and guesthouses. During melas, expect heavy crowds and road traffic.