Tilaurakot (ancient Kapilavastu)

Every account of the Buddha's life begins in a palace. Siddhartha was born a prince of the Shakyas, whose capital was Kapilavastu. His father, King Suddhodana, tried to shield him from suffering, but on four journeys outside the palace the young prince saw an old man, a sick man, a corpse and a wandering ascetic. At 29 he left the palace by night to seek an end to suffering — the Great Renunciation.

The site

Tilaurakot, in Kapilvastu district, is the site Nepal identifies as that capital. Brick city walls and a moat enclose a large rectangular mound; within are the foundations of buildings, wells and streets from many periods. The eastern gate is venerated as the one through which Siddhartha rode away. Under huge old trees, the small Samai Mai shrine is still worshipped by local villagers.

Research and debate

P. C. Mukherji first excavated here in 1899, and Nepali and international teams have continued since. Across the border in India, the site of Piprahwa–Ganwaria has also been identified as Kapilavastu; scholars continue to debate the question, and both sites are part of the Buddhist heritage of the region.

Around Tilaurakot

A museum near the site holds coins, pottery and terracotta finds. Nearby are Kudan, where the Buddha is said to have met his father after enlightenment, the Ashoka pillars of Gotihawa and Niglihawa, and the birdlife of Jagdishpur reservoir.

Visiting

Tilaurakot is peaceful and shady — bring water, go early and allow time simply to sit under the trees.